Making Couture Wedding Dresses- Popular Fabrics
According To Fashion Designer Darius Cordell
Around the body this article are links to sites that stock the various fabrics as described here. In particular the ebay search window at the top right contains a wide range of amazing fabrics at excellent prices . After reading this article click on this and search for your favorite fabric. You are bound to get an amazing deal today.
Before we get started we want to make sure readers of this article understand the differences between the content of a fabric and the weave of a fabric. In this article we are going to be listing several different types of factual weaves of fabrics. Each of those weaves can have a silk content or a polyester content. The weave is how tight or lose the threads have been weaved collectively. But the content is something all together different. For example some clients automatically assume that satin is a silk fabric and that is not necessarily the case. There is a polyester satin as well as a silky smooth satin – satin becoming the weave and soft silk or polyester being the content.
As fashion designers , since most of our clients find us via the internet, we work with a lot of clients who buy from us via the internet. So many times they will simply convey their fabric preferences to us on their order form. Some times our purchasers will send us the actual yardage they want us to use to make their designer wedding gowns. Unfortunately most of our customers are not extremely familiar in the characteristics or the nature of most fabrics.
When the consumer does not want to allow the designer to choose for them and they still want to have some say in what fabric is used we often times tell them to simply go to one of their local fabric stores so they can see and touch the fabric there in person prior to communicating their choice to us on their order form. Some of the fabrics we tell them to look for in particular are posted here in that article.
CHIFFON –
Chiffon is a fabric made from silk or polyester fabric made from silk, cotton, nylon, polyester or rayon. It is almost always sheer, ordinarily it has a little shimmer and is made up of a very simple weave. When held up to the light, this fabric resembles woven netting. This very fluid textile is generally used in flowing bridal gowns, prom dresses and mother of the bride gowns , since it drapes well and can add a flowing look to these types of special occasion dresses . Most people who sew know that it is quite difficult to work with due to the slippery texture of the fabric. Most fabric stores stock and sell several forms of chiffon in a wide variety of colors. It can also come in different weights like 8mm or 12mm. The higher the weight the better and more expensive. Silk chiffon is the most prized, since it has a rich shimmer . Silk chiffon is also remarkably strong for its weight. Because silk chiffon is made from a natural fiber, it tends to be pricier than synthetics, and it also needs to be cleaned with care by a professional . Polyester chiffon is easier to care for and will not shrink or stretch out as much with varying temperatures – when on a hanger. Polyester materials are most commonly used to make chiffon, since most synthetics take dye well, are relatively inexpensive to make, and they tend to be stout. However, the fabric is still delicate enough that it should be hand water-washed with cold water only, and never run through a laundry machine. Synthetics are additionally just as challenging to do the job with as smooth silk, since they are also slippery.
GEORGETTE –
Georgette material is a textile traditionally made from silk, though synthetic fibers such as polyester are sometimes used also . The thing that makes georgette fabric distinctive is the crinkly crepe-light texture, which to the touch is slightly rough and dull, but gives the fabric a lively, flowing look. If you are wanting a slightly more dense fabric than chiffon but still want the flowing nature of chiffon then gerogette is probably your best choice. Many retailers carry georgette fabric in a variety of colors and prints for all types of crafts, hobbys and sewing projects . Some retail stores also swho and sell women’s apparel and drapery made from georgette. The threads used in georgette fabric are extremely contorted, which causes them to crinkle as they relax. The weave of georgette tends to be rather tight, but the total appearance is slightly sheer, since the threads are very thin. Unlike some high quality silks, georgette fabric is also unusually strong, and it holds up well to varied wear. Since silk is highly absorbent, georgette fabric can easily be dyed in a myriad of colors, or printed with a pattern.
CREPE –
Crepe is a silky smooth, wool, or man made fabric of a guaze like texture, having a crimpy appearance. The heaviest weight for this is 40mm which is rather thick. The wavy appearance of Canton crape results from the odd way in which the weft is prepared, the yarn from two bobbins being twisted together in the reverse way. The fabric when woven is smooth and even, having no crape appearance, but when the gum is ultimately extracted by boiling, it at once becomes soft, and the weft, losing its twist, gives the fabric the waved structure which constitutes its distinguishing feature. Canton crapes are used, either white or colored, for scarves and shawls, bonnet trimmings, etc. The crisp and elastic structure of hard crape is not made either in the spinning or in the weaving, but is due to processes through which the gauze passes after it is woven. Crinkle crepe, crepe de chine and crepe back satin are variations of crepe.
CHARMEUSE -
Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a light satin weave, wherever the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish. Whereas the back has a matte finish. It has a shimmering appearance which lays on the body very well, in particular for bridesmaids dresses and other types of social occasion formal wear. The fabric is has a sleek appearance and extremely soft texture. The fabric does need to be handled with care, since it is very fragile. In a satin weave, the fabric is woven in such a way that, from the front, only the warp threads show. Numerous weft threads are also skipped in weaving, creating long, smooth lines of warp threads. Therefore , the front of a satin weave fabrication is glossy and very smooth, while the backing is matte, and slightly rough. The appearance of satin is highly prized for fine ladies evening apparel dressy garments, since it flows well on the body and catches light in a floating and refined pattern. Charmeuse tends to be very silky and comfortable and is known for it’s anti-static nature. It should feel cool on the skin. However, I don’t think it’s the most breathable of fabrics, and in the warmest of conditions it may tend to feel a bit sticky .
VELVET –
Velvet is a kind of woven tufted cloth in which the cut threads are very evenly placed , with a low dense pile, giving it a distinct feel. Velvet is a soft pile fabric that has been manufactured for almost 4,000 years in one form or another. Velvet has for a long time reasoned a high end fabric because it requires more thread to manufacture than other fabrics, as well as many different steps. Velvet can be made from any type of thread, although traditionally, velvet was made with silk thread, fashioning it even more pricey . It tends to be associated with luxury and sophistication, because (traditionally) it was a very rare and expensive material used only by the rich for fine décor. It was the favored fabric of royalty and was prized not only because of its appearance but its warmth, making it preferably for European weather. Velvet is usually woven as a double cloth on a specialized loom. The warp threads pass through two pieces of cloth, rather of just one, and when the fabric is finished, a blade cuts the two pieces of fabric apart along the warp, thusly making velvet. Each piece of fabric must be taken up on a separate roll as it is cut. The resulting fabric is known as a pile fabric because the thread sticks up, resulting in a soft pile.
SATIN –
Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. There are several main types of satin, which can vary in heaviness, flexibleness, and weight. Many materials are also backed up with satin. Wool crepe and velvet often have a satin backing or a satin lining, which eliminates having to wear slips or camisoles. Some of the common satin types are duchess satin, satin faconne, slipper satin, and delustered satin. Duchess satin is used mainly in dress fabrics, and is a common choice for silk satin bridal gowns. It is a fairly stiff satin with a heavy weight and is glossy on one side only. Satin faconne or satin jacquard is a type of satin with patterns woven through it. These could be stripes, paisley, or truthfully any design. Satin jacquard comes in a variety of weights and qualities, but usually toward being a more flexible fabric than duchess satin. Slipper satin is often used for shoes. It may be used on dye-to-match shoes for girls going to the prom . It’s also a common choice for slippers. Slipper satin also covers toe shoes worn by classical performance dancers. Delustered satin, also called peau de soie (skin of silk), is a less shiny, lightweight material. Unlike the shine marked with other forms of satin, peau de soie is often described as having a more matte finish . Delustered satin is usually processed on both sides, making it double-faced. One can also note fine-grained threads in this type of satin.
SHANTUNG –
Shantung is a large material that is generally made with both smooth silk fibers or most kind of synthetic fibers that are meant to be substitutes for egyptian cotton filaments. Occasionally known to as spun crazy smooth silk, the texture of shantung is slightly rough but not unpleasant to the touch. Here are some elementary facts about shantung fabric, including a few examples of common uses for the material. One of the characteristics that give shantung its reputation as a rough fabric is found in the weave of the material. Instead of some sort of intricate weave, shantung more so is as very simple plain weave design with a ribbing . What allows the plain weave to produce the raised or ribbed sections of the fabric is the fact that slubbed yarns are used in the turn of the material. It is a medium-weight, plain-weave fabric in cotton, silk, rayon or synthetics, characterized by a ribbing, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling focal point. End-uses include silk wedding dresses, formal ball gowns and some mother of the bride 2 piece suits. It resembles pongee, but it instead has a more irregular surface . Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. It wrinkles very easily so steaming before each usage is probably going to be important. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as coming apart from at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if you plan to wear it for a long time . This comes in various weights, colors and also an array of prints. Douppioni is the pretty much the same as shantung but simply comes from a different country and relying on the top quality can from time to time nevertheless experience a bit lighter in weight than shantung.
TAFFETA -
Taffeta is a sort of fabric which was historically made from silk, but today can be made from many different fibers, including unreal fibers like nylon, and engineered fibers such as rayon. There are a number of uses for taffeta, ranging from lining windbreakers to making wedding gowns, and many people associate this fabric with luxury and high end garments. Many sewing stores that carry taffeta, and it can also be easily bought directly from most fabric suppliers . This fabric usually has a very tight weave, and the weave is plain yet the fabric is also very soft and smooth to the touch, and it has a famously glistening and glimmery appearance. Taffeta is famous for being very stiff and crisp, generating rustling sounds when people move in it. Yarn-dyed fabric tends to be especially stiff, while piece-dyed garments are softer and more flexible. Silk taffeta, the finest version of this fabric, is used in specialty and fashion designer garments such as formal prom gowns, homecoming dresses and ball gowns. Taffeta made from other fibers are utilized for a a lot of different types of garments, and they are particularly popular as linings, because the taffeta can add insulation while helping the garment keep its form . This fabric can also be used for piecework and artwork.
JERSEY -
is a knit fabric utilized predominantly for clothes manufacture. It was initially produced of wool, but is now produced of wool, cotton, and artificial fibers. Usually thinner or lighter-weight than interlock stitched with much less stretch. It’s appropriate for tops and fuller dresses. Hat cloth is a kind of stitched textile built from organic cotton or a organic cotton and synthetic blend. Most prevalent utilizes for jersey material include t-shirts and the winter season bedding. The fabric is warm and very insulating, making it a popular choice for the layer worn to the body. Jersey also tends to be soft, making it very comfortable. One of the reasons many people like to wear jersey fabric is the stretch factor. The fabric can stretch up to 25% percent along its grain. Garments made from the material have plenty of give as their wearers move, and also tend to cling to the body, since the fabric contracts as well as expanding. Knit garments and a few types of formal dresses are usually made from jersey fabric, taking advantage of the clingy characteristic of the fabric. Jersey fabric is also available in many smorgasbord of hues and habits to suit all tastes.
ORGANZA -
Originally a lightweight silk that is soft cloth, organza is a simple weave that is made using nylon, polyester, and silk or a mix of any of the three. The unfastened weave of the filaments allows the production of organza to result in sections of cloth that are translucent in nature. A slightly looser variation on the weave will result in sheer looking fabric. When it comes to attire, organza is a staple of formal dresses, bridal gowns and other feminine wardrobe items for women. As a way to produce full skirts on couture bridal gowns, nothing beats organza for a graceful fall that produces attractive lines. Wraps that are overlaid with organza can produce a modern look that will draw many admiring eyes. One of the main uses of organza is in the creation of wedding dresses that help make the all important wedding day all the more memorable. Between wedding attire and couture evening wear fashions, organza has a very safe position in the clothing world.
FAILLE -
Faille is a ribbed material with a texture comparable to grosgrain ribbon. The cloth curtains effectively and is not prone to wrinkling. Colour tone is stronger, more stable than shantung. Faille delivers a supportive fit. This material is primarily adorned by females . It has an fantabulous drape, which is why it often appears in wedding gowns. This fabric is also durable and often quite rugged; it is often very immune to stains and tearing, for example. When the woven fabric is made with heavier materials, it can sometimes defy very intensive and varied makes use of.
We highly suggest you go to one of your local fabric stores to see and touch these fabrics in person before you make your options of materials for any variety of women’s clothes.
To consider and browse through some of our Darius Cordell Couture garments that were made with these commonly preferred fabrics make sure you go dariuscordell.co You will uncover darius cordell customer comments on our website as very well.




